(no subject)

[noahgibbs]

I adjusted the slack in my motorcycle's chain -- it needed it pretty badly. And I did so before the sprocket started showing serious signs of wear. Go me!

The motorcycle chain gets a really ungodly amount of road nastiness on it. You find these things out when you clean 10,000 miles worth off sections of it.

Still need to change the oil, but I *did* get the tools I need for another confrontation with the bolt on the bottom of the oil pan. Even if I do real damage to it in the process, it's better to remove it and change the oil than to have to drill it out. bikerscum pointed out to me that things like metal shavings don't go well in your oil and you have to be really careful.

Comments

[oren.livejournal.com]

What did you do to your drain plug?

[angelbob.livejournal.com]

Took it to a shop. They way overtorqued it for me when putting it back on after changing the oil. The steel corners of the bolt are smeared from where I tried to remove it by just applying more and more pressure. Yes, for the record, I'm certain I'm turning it the right direction :-)

There are a couple of things I can try before I have to drill it out. I'm trying them. Either way, it could use replacing.

Drain Plug

[jd5p.livejournal.com]

Have you tried Flare Nut Wrenches?

Re: Drain Plug

[angelbob.livejournal.com]

I've never heard of those. They sound like a breakfast cereal.

Re: Drain Plug

[bk2w.livejournal.com]

Flare-nut wrenches grip hex-nuts on five sides, instead of the normal 2 sides. They're actually intended for nuts on hollow tubes, line brake lines, but they can be nicely effective on other nuts.

The best choice, though, is a box wrench (the circular end of the stereo-typical wrench) or a socket wrench since these grip all six sides of the nut.

Also, Liquid Wrench or WD-40. Frequently and liberally. Because, after all, you want to make sure it's kept nice and wet and slippery.